Irish Fjords

Killary Harbour 2008 by Unukorno
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Killary_harbour.jpg

Several areas of Europe have fjords: however, many are less pronounced due to the limited exposure of westerly winds. Within Ireland there are three fjords situated at Carlingford Lough, Lough Swill with another in Connacht region. [i]  True fjords were formed when glaciers cut through U -shaped valleys by ice segregation plus abrasion of the surrounding bedrocks.  According to standard models these glaciers were formed in pre – glacial valleys that had sloping valley floors.  An overdeepened U – shaped valley ended abruptly due to the work of the glacier at a trough end. That resulted in formation of fjords as the ocean flooded. This glacial ice melt was accompanied by the rebounding of Earth’s crust as both the ice load with the eroded sediment was removed.  This was called isostasy.  Most fjords were deeper than the adjacent sea: these had a sill or shoal ie. Bedrock at their mouth that was caused by the previous glacier’s reduced erosion rate & terminal moraine.  The evidence of glacial erosion is widespread in several mountain areas.  Over – deepened rock hollows, man water – filled represented the corries or cooms: where the first snow lay then thickened also nourished the ice.  From theses mountainous locations ice advanced down into valleys where the ice retreated.  Several other expressions of glaciation were sharp ridge or arêtes between the valleys, heavily – scoured rock surfaces, overdeepened main valleys several may have had a U – shaped cross – profile. [ii]

Carlingford Lough

The name is derived from Old Norse Kerlingfjǫrðr that translates as ‘narrow sea – inlet of the hag.’  Carlingford Lough, Cairlinn, Carlinford Loch or even as Cairlinnfurd Loch is one of Ireland’s three fjords.  It is attributed to this glacial fjord or sea – inlet that forms part of Norther Ireland’s border with the Republic of Ireland to its Southern side.  On the Northern side is County Down also Southern County Louth it is backed by the Mourne Mountains.  At its extreme angle on the Northern corner it is fed by both the Newry Canal & River. [iii]  Included in the area are mudflats, saltmarsh, small rocks plus shingle islands on the border with the Republic of Ireland.  Coordinates for the Lough are Northern Ireland; 831 ha; 54°03’N 006°07’W.  Special Protection Area EC Directive, SSSI. [iv]  The name of Carlingford is a Scandinavian translation of a ‘Fjord of Corlinn.’ [v]  This fjord is mentioned in the ‘Annals of the Kingdom’ 1856 Four Masters Hodges Smith & Co. Dublin.  On page 43 1565 as Cuan – Snamha Aighneach plus Carlingford Lough Baile – Eoin – Cabhann Snamh – Aighneach on page 107. [vi]  This site states that the inlet of the Irish Sea separates the Peninsula of Co. Louth, Ireland from the Mourne Mountains & Newry district in Northern Ireland.  The town of Newry is connected with Carlingford Lough which is 16 km in length plus 2 – 4 miles in width at its northern coastline. [vii]

Lough Swilly

In County Donegal a significant feature of the Wild Atlantic Way is the indented rugged fjord – like coastline that spans four hundred miles. [viii]  Lough Swilly or Loch Suílí means ‘Lake of Shadows’ or ‘Lake of Eyes.’  It is a glacial fjord or sea inlet that lies between the western side of the Inishowen Peninsula & the Fenad Peninsula in County Donegal. It has been recorded on Ptolemy’s Map of the World.  There several early Stone Age Monuments plus Iron Age Fortification along its shores.  There are shell middens that are dated to approx.7,000 BC in the area.  According to Séan Pierce in an article ‘Sweeping Swiftly over Swilly’ in the Irish Times dated 20th August 2011 ‘Loch Súilí means the Lake of Eyes or Lake of Shadows.  It ia glacial fjord bordered by two Penisulas, namely Inishowen & Fenad. [ix]

Killary Harbour

Killary Harbour or An Caoláire Rua is a fjord located in Western Ireland along the border between Counties Mayo & Galway.  The flooded valley is 16 km in length, at its centre it is over 42 – 45 metres in depth.  The sea level is higher outside the mouth of the valley.  It becomes very narrow at its innermost section.  For centuries Killary has been known as the only fjord within Ireland.  It has been known as ‘one of 2 – 4 fjord – type inlets.’  Despite arguments ‘that it lacked extensive steep cliff walls without the consideration of the deep underwater side of the valley with the shape of its bed:’  in a peer – reviewed paper ‘An Oceanographical Survey of Killary Harbour’ …it concluded that Killary was a fjord. [x]  Killary Harbour is Ireland’s only true fjord. It extends 16km in from the Atlantic Ocean to its head at Ashleagh.  It forms the border between two Counties ie: Mayo & Galway.  Its Northern side has Connacht’s highest mountain, Mweelrea while the Twelve Bens with Maumturk Mountains are located towards the Southern end.  It has a depth of over 45m at its core. [xi]  The Glacial fjord of Killary acts as a natural border between two bastions of traditional Ireland namely counties Mayo & Galway.  The Delphi Valley has three lakes: Glencullen, Doolough plus Finnlough that run into the Bundorragh river then on into Killary Harbour. [xii]  The long narrow steep – sided inlet at Killary Harbour is certainly among one of the most impressive fjords.  Here the sea has been inundated the glacially – deepened trough that produced a landscape reminiscent of a Norwegian fjord. [xiii]  The area is described as ‘the long, narrow fjord of Killary Harbour is only a few metres wide, (it forms the border counties of Mayo & Galway.)  A glacier must have scoured the bottom as it moved towards the sea.  It also took large volumes of rock & gravel with it.  The depth reduces dramatically just outside the entrance.  There are a number of rocky islands that give a profile typical of the fjords of Scandinavian’ in ‘Ireland’s Coastline: Exploring its Nature and Heritage’2007 Nairn Richard Collins Press, Cork.  The Geographical coordinates are Latitude at 53.965278: with Longitude at 10. 192778. [xiv]  Dotted with musses rafts (see image) the long narrow Killary Harbour is often referred to as Ireland’s Fjord at 16km inland.  It is more than 45 m deep at the centre.  The village of Leenane is on its shore with Mweelrea Mountain at a height of 814 m is to its north side. [xv]

Footnotes

Carlingford Loch is mentioned in Whitlow J. B.’s 1974 edition of ‘Geology and Scenery in Ireland.’ by Penguin Publishers at this link: https://www.amazon.com/Geology-Scenery-Ireland-

Several books are available on Amazon re Carlingford Lough at this  link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=carlingford+lough&hvadid=80676698148084&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&tag=mh0a9-21&ref=pd_sl_4sj865tfi3_e

An interesting article on the link of John Newton with Lough Swilly in Northern Ireland when his cry for assistance was heard during an Atlantic storm plus the safe arrival at the Lough may be viewed at this site: http://www.amazinggrace.ie/newton-in-ireland.html)

This section of the above link provides details of the origins of the hymn ‘Amazing Grace’ by John Newton which originally was called ‘Faith’s Review & Expectations’: http://www.amazinggrace.ie/

This website has a Map of Lough Swilly: https://mapcarta.com/18268280

This link has a beautiful image of Lough Swilly in Co. Donegal: https://www.wildernessireland.com/blog/

Killary is mentioned in the Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland by the Four Masters at this link:

https://archive.org/details/annalsofkingdomo07ocleuoft

Killary  Harbour is mentioned at this link: https://www.irishexaminer.com/lifestyle/outdoors/richard-collins/thoughts-turn-to-accounts-of-historic-seal-spots-458241.html

Killary is Ireland’s only fjord, a nine-mile stretch of water may be viewed at this site: https://www.irishtimes.com/news/even-the-dolphins-like-killary-s-cruise-vessel-1.254959

One may view timetables of the tides at this fjord at this link: https://www.tidetimes.org.uk/killary-harbour-tide-times

Bibliography

[i] Category Fjords of Ireland (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/)  [assessed 5th June 2020]

[ii] Category Fjords of Ireland (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fjord ) [assessed 5th June 2020]

[iii] Carlingford Lough (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carlingford_Lough) [assessed 6th June 2020]

[iv] Carlingford Harbour (https://rsis.ramsar.org/ris/936 ) [assessed 6th June 2020]

[v] Carlingford Lough Heritage Trust (https://carlingfordheritagecentre.com/history/ ) [assessed 6th June 2020]

[vi] ‘Annals of the Kingdom’ (https://archive.org/details/annalsofkingdomh) [assessed 6th June 2020]

[vii] Carlingford Lough (https://www.britannica.com/place/Carlingford-Lough) [assessed 6th June 2020]

[viii] History of Donegal (https://donegalancestry.com/donegal/ ) [assessed 6th June 2020]

[ix] Lough Swilly (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lough_Swilly ) [assessed 6th June 2020]

[x] Killary Harbour (https://curiousireland.ie/irelands-only-fjord ) [assessed 5th June 2020]

[xi] Killary Harbour (https://www.destinationwestport.com/) [assessed 5th June 2020]

[xii] Killary Harbour, County  Mayo (https://www.ireland.com/en-us/destinations) [assessed 65h June 2020]

[xiii] Category Fjords of Ireland (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fjord) [assessed 5th June 2020]

[xiv] Killary Harbour (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Killary_Harbour) [assessed 5th June 2020]

[xv] Killary Harbour travel (https://www.lonelyplanet.com/ireland/killary-harbour ) [assessed 6th June 2020]

 

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